i'm in des moines.  i took a long walk at dusk.  at 9pm, the center of downtown was absolutely deserted.  four-lane main thoroughfares with maybe one car per minute.  eerie.

bike is good.  getting 75mpg if i go 53mph, 70mpg at 58mph.  new front tire in pittsburgh.  funny story.  no time to tell it now.

crucial factoid i wish i had known: there is a HUGE difference between the fees at "state park" campgrounds and "national forest" campgrounds.  i did suppress my nausea and pay $21 (!!!) to pitch my little tent for 12 hours in a state park outside pittsburgh tuesday night.  but when one in ohio wanted $26, that was it.  $26 per day = $780 per month!!!  to pitch a tent!!!  to charge $26 for the privilege of sleeping on the ground is such madness that i just couldn't do it.  night was falling but i got on my bike and rode until midnight, then sat in a Waffle House outside of dayton for 3 hours, then rode again, dawn breaking as i crossed indiana. 

national forest campgrounds are more like $10, some $5, and some places in montana are FREE.  bless you, montana.  and bless you, national forest service. 

last night i lay down on a nice grassy rest area lawn from 11pm to 4am near peoria, illinois.  the chirping pre-dawn birds woke me up.